Journal
APPLIED OCEAN RESEARCH
Volume 82, Issue -, Pages 52-62Publisher
ELSEVIER SCI LTD
DOI: 10.1016/j.apor.2018.10.021
Keywords
Infragravity wave; Fringing reef; Reef crest; Lagoon; Reef roughness
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Funding
- National Natural Science Foundation of China [51679014, 51839002]
- Hunan Science and Technology Plan Program [2017RS3035]
- Open Foundation of Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defense of Ministry of Education [201602]
- Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities [TKS160108]
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Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical atolls fringed by coral reefs are susceptible to coastal inundation during extreme wave events. Previous studies have shown that the infragravity (IG) wave is the dominant component of shoreline run-up compared to the sea and swell (SS) wave and the wave-induced setup. To better understand both the SS and IG wave dynamics over a fringing reef with various morphologies, a series of laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume based on an idealized fringing reef profile. The shoreline responses of waves to different reef morphologies with/without the reef crest, the lagoon and the reef surface roughness were examined. IG wave resonance on the reef flat was identified by a spectral analysis of the shoreline wave records. Subsequently, a numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations was validated by the experimental data. The model was then applied to investigate the impacts of varying reef morphologic features (fore-reef slope, reef-crest width, lagoon width, and reef roughness coefficient) on the shoreline wave motions.
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