Journal
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
Volume 37, Issue 4, Pages 357-365Publisher
WILEY
DOI: 10.1111/ics.12208
Keywords
atmospheric pollution; skin physiology; structure; squalene oxidization
Categories
Funding
- L'Oreal Research and Innovation
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Synopsis A review of the oxidization of squalene, a specific human compound produced by the sebaceous gland, is proposed. Such chemical transformation induces important consequences at various levels. Squalene by-products, mostly under peroxidized forms, lead to comedogenesis, contribute to the development of inflammatory acne and possibly modify the skin relief (wrinkling). Experimental conditions of oxidation and/or photo-oxidation mechanisms are exposed, suggesting that they could possibly be bio-markers of atmospheric pollution upon skin. Ozone, long UVA rays, cigarette smoke... are shown powerful oxidizing agents of squalene. Some invitro, exvivo and invivo testings are proposed as examples, aiming at studying ingredients or products capable of boosting or counteracting such chemical changes that, globally, bring adverse effects to various cutaneous compartments.
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