Journal
PHYSICAL REVIEW LETTERS
Volume 112, Issue 11, Pages -Publisher
AMER PHYSICAL SOC
DOI: 10.1103/PhysRevLett.112.114502
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Funding
- Australian Research Council [DP0985602, DP120101701]
- National Ocean Partnership Program, through the U.S. Office of Naval Research [N00014-10-1-0390]
- Chevron (CASE-EJIP Joint Industry Project) [4545093]
- ERC [ERC-2011-AdG 290562-MULTIWAVE]
- ERC Starter Grant-Top Up [12/ERC/E2227]
- Science Foundation Ireland (SFI) [12/ERC/E2227] Funding Source: Science Foundation Ireland (SFI)
- Australian Research Council [DP0985602] Funding Source: Australian Research Council
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Observed crest speeds of maximally steep, breaking water waves are much slower than expected. Our fully nonlinear computations of unsteadily propagating deep water wave groups show that each wave crest approaching its maximum height slows down significantly and either breaks at this reduced speed, or accelerates forward unbroken. This previously noted crest slowdown behavior was validated as generic in our extensive laboratory and field observations. It is likely to occur in unsteady dispersive nonlinear wave groups in other natural systems.
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