Journal
OCEAN ENGINEERING
Volume 58, Issue -, Pages 224-238Publisher
PERGAMON-ELSEVIER SCIENCE LTD
DOI: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2012.11.008
Keywords
Wave forecast; Numerical modelling; SWAN; Calibration tests; Portuguese ports
Funding
- Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology [PTDC/ECM/64373/2006, SFRH/BPD/5553/2009]
- Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia [PTDC/ECM/64373/2006] Funding Source: FCT
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The objective of the present work is to analyse the performance of a high-resolution wave forecasting system to provide accurate real time information about the sea states in the neighbourhood of the Portuguese ports. Pre-operational tests with the SWAN model, including calibrations and validations of the results in medium and high resolution areas, were carried out for an eight-month period starting with October 2010. All the three formulations, available in SWAN version 40.81 for wave generation by wind and dissipation by whitecapping, were investigated at various computational levels of the wave modelling system. The results show that the prediction accuracy in the nearshore is considerably improved by including areas with higher resolution, especially in the cases when accurate high resolution bathymetry and wind data are available. From the analysis of the wave statistics against buoy data, the most reliable model system configuration for the continental Portuguese nearshore was designed. (c) 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
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